when you have the motivation to get good in surfing, you will get good really fast. in the past 3 days, i’ve seen guys transformed into really good surfers. Hiro-san with the perfect form…
Nori-san is always smiling. riding and smiling and smiling and riding…
these photos i love the most. you feel like you’re actually riding together. and it makes you feel like you’re in Hawaii! 
and when you’re in Hawaii surfing beautiful waves, you feel beautiful! nothing can stop the smiles!
thanks boys for the morning session. every session we surf, you will only get better. this is called “Boot Camp!” haha.
i was starving! so went to Rainbow Drive-in and ordered my special plate i’ve been eating for the past 35 years. nothing changed except the price going up 3x. that’s called “inflation.” 
then went back for an evening session with the boys. lots of people don’t like to go backside because it’s tricky. but once you find out the right way, it’s easier than frontside. so i told the boys to practice backside in the evening. 
and when you can successfully ride backside, your frontside will get 2x better. good job boys!
i start off the day with the sunrise heading into the ocean, and end the day with the sunset getting out of the ocean. a very long but very lovely day…
