so happy to see Namikoshi-san back in Hawaii. such a wonderful man that loves to surf! today we were enjoying very long rides from every angle.
this one from behind with the nicest morning view…
Namikoshi-san caught 13 waves that he rode perfectly. by far, our best day of Boot Camp!
Thank you for the long rides and longer smiles. see you tomorrow…
when i look back 15 years, this is what us boys were doing. got together with my high school classmates and headed to Bali. it was just the the boys enjoying surf, culture, food, and lots of Bintangs.
Carter and i were the first ones up every morning getting our first session done at sunrise.
this was one of my favorite turns. loved it back then, and love it right now. i’m going to do one of these tomorrow morning! haha…
