Surf with a Buddy…

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i went to surf Diamond Head and right as i got there, i seen an ambulance and fire truck arrive.  i knew something was wrong.a local surfer was surfing and then he felt like he was going to pass out.  so other local surfers went to help him and called 911.  this is the reason i always tell my students never to surf alone.  some listen, some don’t.  you have to remember that if nobody knows you, nobody will be looking out after you.  so please surf with somebody who knows what to do in case of an emergency.  please…when i got the group text yesterday afternoon to go for a ride, i said “I’m in!”  Micah and my brother loaded up the bikes and we were off to the mountains.went to meet up with Tony, Eric Barton, and our friends son.  so we had 6 of us in our group.  i was the least experienced so yeah, i was way behind.  haha.  but everybody is watching out for everybody.  it’s an amazing bond.and the views from the mountains are spectacular!  while everybody keeps on riding, i have to stop and take a photo like this.  then we continue down the steep mountain.  i’m always wondering how the heck i’m going to make it back up?  haha…and along the sea cliffs too.  right over the side is a 500′ vertical drop into the rocky coastline.  one mistake and goodbye forever.  i can’t believe how fast those guys ride along that cliff.  i don’t have much fear in most things i do, but i’d be lying to you if i told you i wasn’t scared riding along this cliff.  it was freaky…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide