Farming to Surfing!

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so happy to surf with the Maruyama-san family today!  Masami-san on the outside enjoying Bowls rights.  from cold Sendai to warm Hawaii…good surfing in paradise.  Wife Takako-san hasn’t surfed since the last time with me which was 2 years ago.  this was her first wave since then and i couldn’t believe how fast she popped up!  and also having so much fun!Mama Keiko-san’s first ever time in the open ocean.  she was just loving the vibe and loving the ride.  so stoked!

when i come home and upload the photos and see this, i’m the happiest guy ever.  to see people enjoying surfing like this is golden…  Papa Noboru-san is a farmer.  a very hard worker and a very strong man.  what amazes me even more is he’s 70 years old!!!  he challenged himself to surf for the very first time today, and he did it!!!  this is not only good, this is perfect!  men like this inspire me.  when i turn 70, i hope to be healthy and happy just like Noboru-san.  this man never gives up….i’m so happy to have been the one to get you on your very first wave of your life.  i’m sure you will inspire many people to take the challenge you just did.  had some hot pho for lunch.  tomorrow i’m surfing with Masami-san so he’s going to get his waves, and he’s going to get my waves.  so expect a lot of waves for his cool guy.  thank you guys for the amazing morning…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide