Lonely Sunday in the Sea…

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imagine paddling out to the Bowls at 3pm on a warm sunny Sunday afternoon and seeing nobody else out???  unheard of right?  Uehara-san was surfing the rights all to himself, and out in the distance, you will see a longboard girl.  that was Seira-chan surfing the Bowls main peak all to herself.  so yeah, it was just the 3 of us loving life…Uehara-san is super stoked on surfing.  last time he came, the waves were almost flat.  this time, not so flat!  a very happy guy that’s smiling from start to finish…yes, we scored man!  keep on surfing…then Seira-chan is at the level where she can just paddle out alone and surf just as good as everybody else.  she knows this wave very well and she knows how to surf it well too…gosh, i just love photos like this.  ocean x surfer…another bikini day in Hawaii.  can’t beat that!  “In the end, we only REGRET the chances we didn’t take.”  recently i’ve been taking chances i’d thought i’d never take.  i don’t live my life with regrets so  i guess i’m on the right path in life.  and it feels freaking great!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide