Dark Patrol and a Million Views…

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i dropped off Seira-chan off at the beach at 6am in the morning.  the first thing she said was “it’s dark.”  haha.  i laughed and said “you won’t see anything when you paddle out.  just go out there and connect with the ocean and you will feel it.”  i told her to paddle out by herself and i’ll be back in 20 minutes when it gets lighter.  so she had the whole ocean to herself.  and after we surfed, she said “my favorite time is early morning now.”  haha.  i knew she would love it…when Seira-chan rides waves, i can see a lot of people watching her.  and that’s because she’s good.  it’s amazing how cool and calm this girl has become in the ocean…watching her catch sets at Bowls on her own, and riding it all the way to the rock wall.  that’s wave knowledge…ok, here is the best photo i got of Seira-chan’s first free dive.  and if you learn how to free dive, this will be your view.  i will never forget the first time i looked up and saw this when i was a kid.  it’s one of the most beautiful thing you will ever see.  and after seeing this about a million of times, it still amazes me…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide