Sweet Home Mentawai

292

good morning. been pretty busy. i was online looking for a store that sold another “kirby.” if i had another kirby on my side, i’d be a happier man. this kirby would be diving, traveling, and surfing. the other kirby would be doing all the other work like sitting in front of this computer 5 hours/day 365 days a year. help!

hey furuki-san, i really like this illustration of team Toda-san. your artwork is amazing and when alyssa wooten was at my house the other day, she said “hey uncle, i like get one too.” she loves it!

and when i shot alyssa the other day, she came over to get the photos because she knows how busy i am. if she didn’t come by, it would still be on the memory card in my camera. but she came so i uploaded it to my computer. and guess what? my hard drive got full so i had to delete files. i ended up throwing away 65,000 photos from a 2010 folder. it’s fricken lost forever!!!! so dave, sorry that epic kamogawa session will be a memory in our minds. this photo that was on my blog that day is the only one and happens to be a low resolution file. the other super good photos are gone. i’m just as shocked as you!

i will never forget our TSSC mentawai boat trip about 10 years ago. i remember pulling into this tube at Kandui lefts. when we pulled up, nobody was out. i grabbed my board and went to test it out. it was so shallow and i got pounded on the reef. no wonder nobody was out. but it was worth this photo yoshiro nakayama took that was published in the SURF1ST magazine. sometimes, my job hurts!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide