i’ve been taking photos ever since i was 13 years old. some images i remember, and some images i forget. some are magic, some aren’t. but it’s those magic moments i capture that speak a thousand words. take this one for example…
30mph onshore winds. super dark gloomy morning. nobody in the parking lot, and of course nobody out in the ocean. days like this, nobody even wants to get out of bed. when you look into the ocean, you will see all white water. that’s the hundreds of waves per minute being pushed in by the stormy onshore winds. it actually looks like a washing machine on full cycle. nobody wants anything to do with it, but it’s these days you can learn the most. you will learn about the ocean, and you will learn about yourself. i tell my students “if there’s a will, there’s a way.” that means if you think positive you can accomplish anything. just to get out to the lineup that morning took bravery and commitment. but once you got out and ride a wave, your outlook on life will never be the same. you will feel confident, and you will feel content. and if you don’t believe me, just ask Sasaki-san about this amazing morning. this is one of my best photos i’ve ever taken of “man vs. nature.” pure commitment on the paddle out. i just love it…
