Simply Just like This…

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 when you can become a very calm and positive person, happiness will follow.  when i was 20 years old, i wish i was as calm, positive, and happy as this girl.  i was actually the total opposite.  haha…waves bigger this morning so practicing the duck dives with Oshima-san.  this is perfect!somethings you can simply explain, and somethings you have to show by example.  so as Oshima-san was paddling back out, i took off and told him “do it just like this.”  this is such a simple maneuver that takes very little effort if you’re doing it the right way.  and if you’re doing it the right way, you will see the sprays flying off the back of the board.next wave, Oshima-san takes off and i was watching from behind.then he did it!  a nice smooth cutback with sprays flying off the back of his board.  this is exactly how you do it!!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide