Living in Paradise….

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good morning. 7am windy junky rainy saturday morning. the waves are terrible and not even surfable out in the north shore. nobody’s out anywhere but they have to run the haleiwa pro. yes, the contest is on @ 8;30am. i don’t know if it’s even worth driving out to watch it. i hope some japanese are still in the contest because the will rip the conditions like this. anyway, it’s days like today that makes me glad i don’t have to surf contests anymore. it’s a whole new ballpark out there. good luck to all the competitors. the winds and rain are super strong out of the north so if your going out there, take warm clothes and an umbrella. as for town, flat as a pancake…. have a wonderful day….

here’s the 5 day forecast. rain rain rain on the way. i love it….

you can’t beat surfing in the evening and coming home to a huge jacuzzi can you? here is tony, micah, josh, seth, and fisher loving life…

and here is me sitting back on the sofa fronting sunset point loving life….

and last, be careful when driving on the north shore bypass. there was a cop with a radar gun yesterday morning around 9:30am. i took this photo and when the cop seen me, he looked pissed. lucky i was driving like a good boy….

and last last, don’t forget to buy your christmas ornaments. i got mine dropped off today. merry christmas….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide