thank goodness there are surfers in our government. the people of Hawaii are allowed to go surfing because without it, we would die. and if you don’t believe me, you probably don’t surf. it’s our way to keep sane. it’s our way to keep healthy. and it’s our way to keep calm. i waited all day for this afternoon because i knew what would happen. i was on the way out and look how perfect Bowls was! it was time!
i knew the wind would turn more offshore, i knew the tide will come up, i knew the swell would pulse, and i knew Big Rights would be super good. that’s from 35 years of experience surfing out there.
i anchored Mayuki, paddled in, and there were only 7 surfers out. i was the oldest guy that surfed the longest out there so guess what? i got all the good waves! haha. my first 7 set waves i got deep barrels and made them all. it was my best surf session of the year and i was so stoked. i ended up surfing for 3 hours!
driving around is weird. i can get home twice as fast now since there are no cars on the street. this is usually peak traffic time but there was nobody. i know another place where the waves will be super good tomorrow so i’m going to sleep early and be on it at the best time of the day. in surfing, timing is everything…
Nakahodo-san was in Hawaii and ordered a glass of Jack Daniels Sinatra. he sent me this photo so i got a glass out and drank a glass too.
i had no idea it cost $39 for a glass! omg! that’s so expensive!!! but i learned from a very wise man to drink the best. and on this menu, Sinatra is the best! good choice Nakahodo-san!
