Hugs and Kisses

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this past trip, i taught Seira-chan how to do a headstand.  she struggled in the beginning but after practicing everyday, she mastered it.  doing a headstand has nothing to do with power, it’s all mind…i was walking on the jetty next to Seira-chan and when i looked back, she was still at the beginning?  this is something i forgot to teach her.  haha.  i was laughing and laughing at her.  walking on rocks is part of surfing because there are many spots that only can accessed by crawling on the rocks like a crab.  and surfers are good at this…i’m taking this coronavirus thing in a positive way.  the only thing that makes me sad is you can’t get close to people anymore.  the other day i saw my friend at the beach, i went up to her to give her a hug, then she said “no!” and ran away.  i forgot you’re supposed to be 6′ away from each other.  then i come home and all the kids are playing outside my house.  i want to pick up every one of them and give them a big hug and kiss.  but i know i shouldn’t.  when this thing is over, i’m going to give people hugs and never let go.  because when this is over, everybody is going to need a hug…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide