this is one of the coolest photos i ever took. i was teaching Asayama-san how to dive under when the big waves came. i wasn’t sure what he was doing under the water but when i saw this, i couldn’t stop laughing. i keep this photo on my desktop because it makes me smile. haha…
and to see a 70 year old man charging perfect rights like this was a treat. now Asayama-san is 71 years old and we’re all waiting for him to come back to Hawaii. Happy Birthday young man, and keep on surfing!!!
