Tahitian Claims First Jewel of the Triple Crown of Surfing…

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good morning. 6:30am sunday morning. the waves on the north shore looks clean and fun. i’m going surfing!!! have a nice day…

alyssa came over yesterday to drop off nao-chan. i always have a great time talking to alyssa. she’s classic….

we had our timor boat trip reunion party last night at laurie’s house in kaneohe. i finally got to meet her awesome husband. galen prepared, cooked, cleaned, and baked for us. his desert menu were manju, brownies, and cheese cake. it was sooooo good…. next time, i want to go on a boat trip with galen. i heard he bakes dessert every night… ummm…. by the way, can somebody please send me a group shot we took last night? thanks everybody for the wonderful dinner and great time….

and wanted to congratulate michel bourez from tahiti again for winning the contest yesterday. he was only the second tahitian to ever win a triple crown event. he was freaking ripping!!! my new hero…

and last, speaking of tahiti. on our last day, we stopped by this bookstore in papeete and this book caught my eye. it’s called “Black Ladies” and ever since i came back to hawaii, i’ve been looking for it. it’s not the kind of pornographic book your thinking, instead, it’s super artistic and beautiful photo book. if you know where i can find one in hawaii, please let me know… thanks…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide