Surf, Surf, and Kole…

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nobody is on the beach, but thousands are in the water.  surfed Bowls this morning and was trying my best to stay away from people.  i kept on moving away and when it got too crowded, i just went in.  ended up catching about 15 waves but it’s kind of scary watching everybody surfing so close to each other.  i don’t think people really understand what’s going on…then i get home and my friend texted me “want to surf?”  i said YES!  we go to our secret spot and when i paddled out, i seen somebody so familiar.  Seth Moniz!  yeah, i was so stoked to surf with him and his boys for a couple of hours.  the waves were super fun and not too many guys out.  that made my day!ok, i’m going to try to catch dinner 2x a week.  this lockdown makes me want to live a simple life off the land and sea…this is called “kole” and is the best fish to pan fry.  a little salt/pepper/flour, and oil.  so simple and so delicious…i can eat this every single day!  going back out to get more…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide