Auto Pilot

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another day of this lockdown and since i don’t know when the government will totally ban surfing, i’m heading to the ocean once or twice a day.  and i’m going as far away as possible.  this is called “social distancing.” i have 4 magic boards on Mayuki so depending on where i decide to surf, i’m going to have a good time.  these are the times when magic boards are so precious… found some rubbish in the middle of the sea.  taking it out maybe saved a bird, turtle, whale, or dolphin…today i rode my 5’6 Aipa Twin Fin.  it’s magic!  no surfing photos as i’m taking a break from photography for a while…driving around, i put the throttle to 5 knots and turn on my auto pilot.  yeah, my feet is my auto pilot and it works really good.  play some music, feel the fresh air hitting my face, and trying to make the best out of a very bad situation.  some of my friends stay home and get all depressed watching the news.  that’s not for me.  exercise, clear the mind, and be healthy and happy.  that’s the way i decided to get through this…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide