omg, i pulled up to Diamond Head at 5:45am and the street parking was already full! the full moon was so beautiful!
surfed with the full moon on the West, and the sunrise on the East. days like this i love the most…
i was done by 7:30 and i felt completely satisfied. caught 15 waves and flew like a bird. the waves couldn’t have been any better…
after that, i was kind of nervous because i went for my first ever skin cancer check. both my parents had spots of skin cancer on their face so i thought i’d better go get my first exam. sitting in the office thinking “what if?”
the doctor came in, checked my full body and said “no cancer. and your skin is perfect.” what a relief because i’m in the sun more than anyone else i know. so lucky…
now that i have time, i’m going to dig up old photos like this. i use to go to the park and watch the kids playing baseball. this is Isaiah, Kelia, and Micah Moniz. every time i would watch them, i would say “when are you kids going to come surfing with Uncle Kirby?” they would say “no.” i already knew they would be surfers at some point in time. and sure enough, right after they got bored of chasing the baseball, they started surfing. and look where they are now. pretty funny…
