good evening. surfed all day. morning v-land, afternoon backdoor. got some photos and youtube coming….
this is seth and fisher riding their bikes back from v-land. 2 groms on the north shore….
this is alyssa and nao eating lunch at ted’s bakery. the salad actually looked good…
i had the shoyu chicken. toda-san came all the way from japan to eat ted’s bakery shoyu chicken. now i know why. they give 4 pieces of chicken. my stomach was so full after…
when we pulled up to backdoor, some friends were asking me where i was this morning. when i told them i was at v-land, they wondered why. i’ll tell you why. when the circus of pro surfers from around the world leave after the contest season is over in december, i’ll be there every morning. i’m just being patient because i know what’s coming…
i forgot that alyssa has her license. i threw her the keys and she drove home. all i remember is waking up in town. gosh, what a great nap. thanks alyssa…
cloudy? who cares. i took this sick air photo of the moniz kid’s friend. a keeper…. more coming…
