omg, look at Fujisawa, Japan yesterday. i use to live there so i know how crowded it can get. what happened to the social distancing??? i really don’t think everybody in Japan knows how serous this virus is. once again to my loved ones in Japan, “you guys didn’t even see the worst yet! and if you keep on doing this, it will get super worst! so please stay away from people so this virus will go away! and i want it to go away soon because i went to go back to Japan soon! so please! as of today, there were 177,200 deaths in the world related to the coronavirus. doesn’t that number scare you guys???”
here in Hawaii, even us surfers social distance. i was out at Diamond Head this morning and people were actually spread out. and for this very reason, maybe thats why we only had 12 deaths so far…
seen my friend Stan out. haven’t seen him in a long time. stoked to see each other, but the handshake and hug can wait till later.
a couple of my friends ask me where i’ve been surfing. i’ve been surfing places not that crowded. and if it is, i stay away from everybody. by the way, the Hawaii government just extended the lockdown until May 31. yes, still stay home…
whenever i’m in the water, i’m always looking to connect for the shot of the day. that happened at 6:43 this morning right as the sun rose. how big and beautiful is that!
