A Thousand Waves…

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when Seira-chan spent 45 days here in Hawaii, i would always tell her to catch as many waves as possible.  so she would average 20-30 waves per session.  and now that the government officially closed ALL beaches in Japan, i’m sure she was glad to ride a thousand waves in Hawaii this past Spring…Masae-san sent me these photos from Kamakura.  yes, surfing is banned there too…to all my friends in Japan, please follow the rules.  don’t make surfers have a bad image at a time like this.  the ocean will aways be there…thank you Masae-san for the photos.  i’m glad you’re staying at home and making beautiful puzzles like this… i’ve been trying all different kinds of boards and foils.  trying them on different waves and staying away from the crowds.  it’s pretty fun riding Kelia’s magic longboard one day, then flying on my foil the other.   ok, i’ve been checking the waves everyday for my whole life.  i’ve seen crazy things but nothing as crazy as this.  this is Rockpiles!!!  it’s been like this everyday and i’m kind of shocked.  it’s worst than Waikiki!  it’s getting out of control and i don’t understand why everybody wants to surf at the same spot everyday.  come on guys, spread out!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide