good evening. from town to country to country to town. the waves was crazy but we found a nice spot. then an afternoon session at kewalo’s to finish off this beautiful day. check out some photos….
we stopped by the roxy house at sunset beach and the girls got some goodies….
when we first pulled up to log cabins to look at the ocean, i thought we made a big mistake by driving out. the winds were so strong that the sand flying off the beach hurted….
after looking around for waves, we found the perfect head high wave with off shore conditions. and only 2 other surfers out…
i can’t stress more how the bottom turn is the most important maneuver in surfing. everything happens off the bottom turn and when you have a perfect one like nao-chan, the rest is easy. if i showed you the snap she did after this, you would freak. i’m saving that one for later….
for the past 2 years, i always told kelia to keep her knees bent throughout every turn. she’s so use to longboarding that it’s hard for her to make the transition. i even sent her an email 2 nights ago with attached photos on why she keeps on falling off on floaters. well today, she finally did it. this is the first backside floater i ever seen her make with ease. kelia kept her knees bent throughout the whole turn and made it look so easy. once she gets this into her mind on every turn, watch out…. seeing that today made my day…
and last, 2 roxy girls. one hawaiian and one japanese. 2 of them on top of their game in their countries. 2 of them only 15 years old with the whole world ahead of them. i can’t wait to see how far they take their careers….
