Above and Beyond…

195

during this lockdown, it’s ok to exercise so i’ve been exercising more than i’ve ever did in my life.  this day, hunting was my exercise.  i still think free diving is the most mentally and physically demanding exercise.  when i get home at night, i sleep like a baby…yesterday i was watching Bowls all day long.  morning was small and junky.  then as the tide started filling in, the waves got better and the crowd came in.  so it was my time to fly!   met my shaper Trinko to pick up my custom ordered board.  i really wanted a board for small days like how’s it’s been recently.  this is the one!   the color was Nao-san inspired.  came out so beautiful!stickered and waxed it up, and now i’m ready for anything!wow, i didn’t know the beaches in Bali were closed!  the news said that Bali has very low coronavirus infections.  i don’t believe that.  in fact, i don’t believe most of the news these days so that’s why i quit watching it.  i just hope this whole world be able to surf again soon…

going to “wet markets” is the highlight of my traveling.  no matter what country i went to, the first place was checking out the wet markets.  i walked into this one deep in Malaysia.  took photos, tried to talk to people, then sat down and ate lunch.  what was i eating?  i honestly didn’t know most of the time.  i always thought it was really dirty and bacteria everywhere because nothing was ever refrigerated.  next time i’ll think twice before i go…
KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide