Supermoon Foiling

214

the very first time i went full moon surfing was when i was in high school.  and that was at Rock Piles.  i don’t remember catching a wave, but i remember the feeling.  it felt so surreal, and it still does…riding waves in the dark and almost running over your friends.  haha.  i tell my friends to smile so i can at least see their teeth.  and it works because that’s all you can see.  now, i have the time i never had before.  so today, i went to work all day with my sister, Tony, Kelia, and Joe.  working hard and laughing all the way…ever seen a centipede?  better not get stung by this…after all the sweat, i was driving home at 5pm ready for dinner.  last night i slept at 7:30pm and woke up this morning at 3am.  haha.  tonight i want to try to sleep at 8:30pm so i jumped in the ocean to kill time.  flew like a bird for 1 hour and felt so clean and free!  now it’s 8pm and i’m going to sleep.  see you tomorrow morning probably at 3am again.  haha.   goodnight…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide