today i really wanted to try my new board somewhere where nobody was out. just felt like connecting to the ocean and being in a peaceful place. 
Bowls didn’t look to peaceful. and it was only 6:30am! i still can’t believe how many surfers are in the water these days. 
took out my brand new 5’10 which i will call “Momotaro.” and from my very first wave, Momotaro and i connected. i did 3 off the lips and a cutback. i didn’t want my session to end. so happy to get another magic board! 
i went diving outside Waikiki and found these 2 fins on the bottom of the ocean in about 20′ deep water. if it’s yours, i’ll give it back to you so just let me know. 
then spent the rest of the day at Kelia’s house. all the girls were there helping out so it was super fun. if this is what retired life is like, i really like it!
