my friend sent me a photo of his new foil boards last night. i said “wow!” then he said “you like try them?” i said “of course i do!” so i dropped everything and drove out to Mililani early this morning to pick one up. then i came home and waited patiently until the tide came up.
this board was way smaller, thinner, and lighter than my board. totally different but i was so excited! i tell all my students to always go straight and feel the board on the first wave. not me. i go full blast and try to surf like Kai Lenny. haha. i should do as i teach…
then i kept calm and connected with the board. it worked super good and because it’s much smaller, i felt 10 years younger. so i came home and texted my friend “brah, i want this board. sell it to me!” he said “no problem brother.” thank you Donald for selling me one of your precious toys. i’ll make good use of it!!!
for the past 2 months, Bowls has been super crowded everyday. but today, it was totally empty. maybe because it was Mother’s Day? what ever it was, this mother was out there ripping up any wave that came her way. we couldn’t believe how empty it was! smiling faces all afternoon long…
