after my morning fitness/yoga exercise, i stopped by Kelia’s house. saw my little niece Akacia drawing something. so sad these kids don’t have school now. they are so bored! so i ask her if she wants to come to my house and play. she screamed “yes!!!”
we jumped in my car and headed home. i told her “i have a surprise! Mateus is at my house too!” she was even more excited!
Mateus was at my house doing his homework. the don’t have school, but they still have to do homework. they kids were so happy to see each other!
right around 5pm, i wanted to foil few waves so i drove down to Diamond Head. what??? i couldn’t believe how may people were out!! i counted 120 people in the water! it didn’t look fun, it actually looked dangerous. this new South swell is making everybody excited. tomorrow i’m going to find a spot where nobody else is out. and i know just where to go…
came home and planted these green onions in my garden. hope it grows…
my friend Donald was foiling the North Shore today. he said it was epic!
if you’ve ever met Donald, you will know how crazy this guy is. he loves surfing big waves and he would go on anything possible, and impossible. here he is making the impossible look possible…
