hey everyone. how was your day? mine was long. surf, tow-in, kids. surf this morning, take the boat out with 8 kids this afternoon for some ocean fun. i took the killer video and will post it tomorrow if i get up. but for now, these are 3 of the 8 kids today. fun, fun, and fun….
it all started off this morning at kaisers. the waves were super fun and not too many people out. but get use to the cold wind and cold water because winter is here. i was freakin freezing. this is maki yamamoto enjoying another day in hawaii. oh, thanks a lot maki-san for the bicycle. i’m going to start riding it to lose all my happy weight i’ve been gaining….
alyssa wooten taking the drop. alyssa kept telling me how shitty the waves were today. as for me, the waves are never shitty in hawaii. she doesn’t know what shitty is. shitty is driving down to the beach using $50 in gas and $60 in toll roads, then paying $10 for parking, then putting on a 5mm wetsuit, then walking on black sand, only to find out the waves are FLAT. now that’s shitty. i’ve been there before so when somebody tells me that a chest high barreling wave in crystal clear water wearing trunks is shitty, i shake my head. i use to think the same until i left this beautiful island. not anymore….
nao knows what shitty is. she’s from kugenuma so has to surf dirty water on black sand with hundreds of other surfers. today was paradise for her. she caught over 30 waves and was looking pretty dam happy. peace nao[:?????$B!x(B???:]
and last, coconut trees, blue sky, free parking, a rainbow on a hotel, what more can i say. welcome to honolulu, hawaii….
