Labor of Love

192

i went to surf my secret spot because i wanted to practice surfing with nobody around.  my timing is way off because of foiling, but i hope to get it back soon. used this little back fin today and the board totally changed.  more drive and more stable.  so good!i haven’t seen a tour boat for the past 2 months so the ocean is very peaceful.  the turtles seem to love it.  so do i…so happy that hundreds of tourists per day aren’t harassing them anymore.  but once Hawaii opens up, i bet the hundreds turn into thousands.  sad…the water was clean, the waves were good.  hard choice between surfing and diving.on the way in, Bowls still looked good but crowded as always.came home and finished up my project.  i just finished and i’m super happy with the results.  i only spent $130 for the materials and the labor was my love…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide