i’m pretty happy to be back to surfing recently. i reconnected with my shortboard and a lot of my local friends. with my foil, i’m an outsider. with my surfboard, i’m an insider. haha. it’s been locals only time at Bowls.
Kupe with the morning light…
it’s been crowded but everybody has been really nice. super respectful because we’re all in this coronavirus together. 
so happy to be surfing again. i got a really good barrel this morning on the right. i felt like i was at Big Rights! so happy!
this lady isn’t too happy. standing on the corner in the rain holding a sign? 
Government Tyranny? what is she trying to say? maybe this lady should go live in another country and find out what Government Tyranny really is…
i found a secret factory today deep in the industrial area. had a good talk with the owner and now i’m on my quest to getting my dream Japanese car shipped to Hawaii!
