been waking up super early and trying to be the first one in the ocean. paddling out at pitch dark and connecting to the waves. challenging and very spiritual. i just love it…
the waves have been super good everyday! perfect Bowls with a super good vibe. another South swell coming next week. bigger and better!
miss hanging out with cool guys like Rikita-san. he’s craving to come to Hawaii just as much as i’m craving to go to Japan. haha.
last year was the last time i cut my hair. haha. we still can’t get a haircut because of this lockdown. my hair in in my eyes, ears, and sometimes i can’t see or hear when i’m surfing. help!
