spent 2 days on the North Shore and learned a lot. learned that more and more surfers are getting into foiling. who did i see? John Pyzel, Matt Mondragon, John John Florence, Glen Pang, and many many others. had a blast foiling with the boys out there!
we are foiling spots we’d never even heard of. epic conditions and super long rides.
of the 35 years i’ve been going to the North Shore, this was the first time i came to this beach. and surely it won’t be my last. nobody there and it was so beautiful! 
i sat on the beach watching. i saw John John Florence jump in the shorebreak, take off on a knee high wave, pump all the way out to sea, and ride 5 long swells. his first ride was 5 minutes. he was flying like an Eagle! he made everybody else including me, look like little pidgins… haha…
and if you don’t know who Matt Mondragon is, he’s an unknown surfer that rode one of the best Sunset Barrels in history. i use to surf amateur contests with him and nobody knew him, until this cover shot came out. one photo made him famous worldwide! good to see you foiling Matt!
**after this cover shot came out, everybody went to surf Sunset to try to get a photo like this. that was 30 years ago and i’ve never seen anything even close. timing is everything! photo by Aaron Chang.
