Strawberry Moon Forever…

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glad to wake up and get a text from Asayama-san.  he’s back surfing in Japan!  yeah!!! and his flowers are looking so beautiful!i woke up at 3am, did some core training and yoga.  ate breakfast, and it was still not even 4am.  i was going to wait until it gets lighted but i thought why?  so i was in the ocean in ocean before 4:30am.  it was pitch dark because the clouds was blocking the full moon.  i was the first one out, caught 6 beautiful sets in the dark, and the first one in.  i was done by 5:30am.  half of Hawaii was still sleeping but i was already the happiest guy in the world!  came home and watched a movie.  a very depressing one so i needed to cheer myself up.  grabbed my foil and foiled the high tide at Bowls this evening.  i caught 3 waves and was totally satisfied.  that only took 20 min.  haha…driving home looking at the water almost coming over the wall.  the tides are getting higher and it’s only inches before Waikiki gets flooded.  kind of scary…followed the rainbow all the way home.  such a wonderful day of 2 fabulous rounds.  can’t wait till tomorrow…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide