the swell is coming down but everybody is still happy. i surfed 2x today. one at 5am and one at 5pm. low tide surf, and high tide foil. dream life…
i remember last Summer when my Indonesian friend Tim invited me on his new boat. this is his new boat. or should i say, this was his new boat. 
since Japan can’t film new dramas because of the coronavirus, i heard they are replaying old ones. my friend sent me this and i was so happy to see Tokiwa Takako! she knows that i loved her character. “Aishiteru to utte kure” is my all time favorite Japanese drama. i learned how to speak Japanese watching this drama. and i became Tokiwa Takako’s number one fan. if i saw her in person, i would probably melt…
i had this photo sitting on my desktop. it is of Seira-chan on one of her very first free dives. she was so calm, so cool, and so relaxed. i can look at these kinds of photos over and over. it’s just so beautiful!
