Pumpkin and the Girls…

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yesterday morning at Bowls was amazing.  lots of talent out there.   good to see the boys ripping!  Tommy on the early morning bottom turn.Lance Hookano came out and made me laugh all morning.  Lance is one of the few locals that is a local no matter where he surfs in the world.  i tell all my friends “when you see Lance paddling for a wave, don’t even try to paddle for it.  and don’t even look at it.”  if you drop in on him, you will never be able to surf that spot again.  and i’m not joking…woke up 3:30am again and was out before the sun came over Diamond Head.  went to foil with the boys.  i haven’t seen so many Black Belt martial arts guys out at one spot at the same time.  it was cool!  then waited for high tide and went to Bowls.  it must have been the best timing because there were only a few girls out.  so yeah, i was foiling with the boys this morning, and surfing with the girls this afternoon!   this is a dream island…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide