Watashi no mono: This is mine!

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back to yesterday before i can talk about today.  imagine us older guys yelling and screaming like we’re surfing 20′ waves.  our little secret spot was as good as it gets!

Glenn Pang is a legend shaper.  he’s shaped surfboards for some of the best pro surfers in the history of surfing.  very knowledgeable, and very good at foiling!

i was following Glenn on this wave thinking to myself “gosh, i wish i can try his board!”

Donald is one of the happiest guys you’ll ever meet.  always so stoked on life…

Fabian was out but he had his new foil so i couldn’t catch him…

then back to this morning.  another day, another spot.  Kaiborg and i were waiting since yesterday for this moment.  he drove from the North shore before 5am probably speeding at 100mph.  haha.

so after our foiling session yesterday, Glenn said “go take my board and try it.”  what????  this is his personal board!  now it’s mine!  haha.  lucky me!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide