sat on the beach in the morning thinking “um, waves too small to shortboard, tide too low to foil, what should i do? then i remembered i have my custom 5’10 Momotaro that was made for days like this. i grabbed it, paddled out, and had one of the best sessions in a while. 
thank you Momotaro for flowing so gracefully. if it wasn’t for you, i’d still be sitting on the beach wondering what to do. haha. 
Les has been surfing Rockpiles his whole life. everyday he will be down there sweeping the parking lot, raking the leaves, and just being a cool local. good to see guys like this giving back to our surf spots…
saw the news of yet another free diver found dead on the bottom of the ocean. this time it was Australian Olympic Snowboarder Alex Pullin. only 32 years old and his whole life ahead of him. he probably had “shallow water blackout” and once again, it makes me really think about the dangers of free diving. i know it can happen to me anytime i put my mask on. but i also know that us free divers know the dangers and will be content on when our time is up. so maybe that’s why we live each day like it’s our last. and only a free diver will know that feeling…
