Secret Learning

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 woke up at 2:30am, and made sure i was out at the secret spot at first light.  Bowls was flat so i took a chance driving and it worked out!  took long to get there, but i knew it was going to be good.  it was shoulder high and nobody was out!  i foiled for an hour having a blast.  by 7:30am, i was on the road driving back to town.  now i know where to go when town is flat.  i’m learning a lot about these spots… woke up this morning with a beautiful video message from Mauna-chan.  she was crying because she wanted me to take her surfing again.  haha.  so cute!  hey Mauna-chan, i’ll be waiting for you to come back to Hawaii and we can ride long waves again.  until then, be a good little girl!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide