want to thank Matsuo-san for sending me these photos of Akazawa-san’s paddle out in Chigasaki. i feel so helpless for not being about to go to Japan, but it was cool because i could feel him in the water here in Hawaii. the ocean is where surfers souls are kept, and the ocean is where we will all come together someday. 
once again, goodbye my friend…
i told Matsuo-san, “when it’s my time to leave this beautiful earth, please do the exact same for me.” i want my friends to paddle out to which ever ocean is near, give a shaka, smile, and remember the good old times. exactly like this…
