Surfing with Dane Kealoha

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good evening. spent the whole day trying to catch up on emails. i was way behind and even lost some so if i didn’t get back to you by this afternoon, i didn’t get your email. please send it again. i heard the waves weren’t too good out on the north shore. i was watching the contest online and it looked bumpy and weird. i was on my computer way too long today so i’m going to focus on surfing this upcoming week. and maybe even go for a dive. have a great evening…..

we were driving around town last night in my friend rona’s car. it’s one of those electric/gas cars so when it’s on, you can’t even hear anything. it was kind of weird. but i guess we didn’t use to much gas….

there is a new club in waikiki called “Level 4”. it’s on level 4 of the royal hawaiian shopping center. kind of local crowd wearing nice clothes. i was the only one in there with a tshirt and jeans. pretty cool place…

i took this little 7 year old girl surfing yesterday in waikiki. she didn’t like surfing before but everything changed in one day. we caught 10 waves together and her confidence level went up. then she kicked me off the board because she wanted to surf by herself. i pushed her into a wave and she rode it for almost a minute. i will never ever forget that smile on her face when she was paddling back out. it’s amazing how surfing can bring out a smile in kids that no other sport can….

when we first got out, i seen dane kealoha. dane is like one of the nicest guys you’ll ever meet. when ever i was paddling for a wave, he was yelling to everybody “get out of the way”. and everybody got out of the way. gosh, i wish he would do that for me at backdoor… haha…

dane has a surf school down in waikiki so he was out there with his photographer named micah. micah is also a super cool guy. dane and micah told me to come by the shop to pick up some photos he took. check out this turtle hanging out in the lineup yesterday. cool shot. anyway, want to thank dane and micah for styling me out with these awesome photos. photos that mean a lot to me… mahalo guys….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide