it started off so peaceful today! i paddled out in the dark again and foiled until the sun rose. birds flying, and so was i! i looked at the moon above Diamond Head and thought what a beautiful world we live in. at this moment, there was nowhere else i’d rather be…
then the boys started coming out one by one. all very kind and respectful guys out there for the same reason, which is to have fun. here is Fred on an early morning flyby…
then i wanted to foil again so i paddled out to Bowls this afternoon. the total opposite of this morning! OMG, it was craziness. there were 10 guys fighting for every wave that came in. hungry surfers going wild! i caught 5 waves and went in before i went crazy too…
i grew up surfing contests with Isaac Kaneshiro. he was a total dark horse. super good surfer but very quiet. when Kelly Slater was unbeatable, Isaac beat him in a man to man heat in France. then the world knew who he was. it was so cool to see!
