i saw Carter flying from the outside. then as the wave broke, i wasn’t sure what he was going to do. but right when i seen his eyes, i already knew he was going to hit the lip. and hitting the lip on a foil board takes confidence and a little bit of craziness. i sat there filming the wave in awe…
then i seen him turn forward and launch off the lip. he was practically flying! he made this turn which was the best turn of the day by far. i was so stoked to see it, and even more stoked to film it…
sitting at Bowls rights, i’m teaching a girl how to surf, and how not to surf. so we watch this situation unfold. an older guy on a 10′ beginner board on the shoulder. just by the way he was paddling, i knew he shouldn’t be out there. then i see him paddling for this wave without looking behind. omg!
then he goes straight totally ruining the guys barrel. i told the girl i’m teaching “did you see that? never ever do that. and if you do, please make like you don’t know me.” haha…
