Surf or Suntan?

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i was paddling out to Bowls this morning and this beautiful girl was waving at me in the distance.  she was so beautiful and she kept on waving and waving.  paddled closer and it was Kelia!  oh shucks…  haha.

Kelia and all the Roxy girls were out.  i was so happy to surf with them.  here is Megan behind, and Kelia in front.  best friends sharing the moment…

Kekoa Becalso is one of the most underground surfers in the world.  surfing on his backhand, he will make Kelly Slater look like an amateur.  nobody throws this much spray…

it was very uncrowded so we scored.  Micah paddled out too so we were all surfing together.  well, i was actually foiling and in my own beautiful world…

one of the Uncles paddled out and caught the best waves.  after this one, he told me, “i didn’t come out here for a suntan.”  haha…

 

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide