i haven’t been to Diamond Head in a while so i was excited to go foil there today. when i pulled up, there were only a few surfers out. it was awesome to be in such a big ocean today! i love it…
i film everything. i film good rides, and i film heavy wipeouts. when you’re on a foil, the wipeouts are 10x more dramatic than a shortboard. wiping out on a waist high wave feels like wiping out on a 10′ wave at Pipeline. so when you paddle for a wave on a foil, you have to commit 100% or else this could happen. same thing as Pipeline. so yeah, commitment is the key to preventing wipeouts. but to be honest, i wipeout like this all the time on my foil and it actually feels good. it’s better than a morning cup of coffee. haha…