omg, went for a full moon surf this morning. got a very unusual text at 4am “hi, i want to go surf with you.”
my little princess wanted to try. it was the first time in 18 years i took her so early in the morning. and when she caught her first wave in the pitch dark, she was so happy!
after every wave, she paddled out with the biggest smile on her face. and then she told me “now i know why you’re so happy everyday.” haha…
glad you got up early girl. an glad you understand why nothing bothers me all day long. how could it? 
i haven’t ridden a longboard since the lockdown. i actually had so much fun because i could catch every single wave in the ocean and look for the barrel again. yeah!!! 
it was a very beautiful morning in Hawaii. i love it…
