the older i get, the earlier i wake up. i guess that’s a good thing because i cherish these moments while most people are still sleeping…
and when a young surfer starts to fall in love with these moments, they will live a happier and healthier life.
since i can’t travel, i can only reminisce. Kimura-san, Eri-chan, Naoka, Kyle, and i getting ready for a room party deep in Wakayama. i think we were pretty loud that night. haha. i miss trips like this…
19 years ago we caught a huge swordfish on a boat trip in Indonesia. it was on the way back from an amazing trip so that was the icing on the cake…
Fiji Boat Trip: if it wasn’t for Tokura-san, i’d probably be a salaryman in Tokyo. i guess you can say that he saved my surfing career, and also probably saved my life. i never forget the people that changed my life so much. i’m a very happy man today because of him…
