Kid Lifesavers…

247

good evening. went early to the north shore this morning. it was dark, rainy, and cloudy on the way out but once i got to the beach, it was sunny and perfect. i think today was the first day of the year were every spot on the north shore was going off!! south/east winds making perfect clean off shore waves from haleiwa to sunset beach. a classic day. i went down to a little beach break where only 3 other guys were out. wait, 10 if you add in the moniz clan. after that, i paddled out to backdoor for the first time this year. i just wanted to get the feeling of the vibe out there. it was actually pretty good. anyway, got some nice photos but check out this story first…

there i was sitting on the beach watching the kids surf. then to the side, this group of tourist with their cameras came to the waters edge. it looked like the perfect day for a swim, so that’s what they thought. after i seen them take off their shirts and jump in the water, i knew trouble was coming. with no lifeguards in sight, i kept an eye on them. tony moniz was up at the house watching and thinking the same thing. 2 guys were swimming for about 10 minutes when they decided to make it back to the beach. well, it’s not so easy, especially when there is a rip current taking them straight out to sea. so like normal people, they try to fight the current swimming against it. they all get tired, one of their friends jump in to try to save them, then he gets into trouble. now you got 3 big guys out there yelling “HELP” and practically drowning. tony and i whistle to the kids surfing up the beach.

seth and fisher were the first to get to the guys. they gave them their boards and other surfers came to the guys back to the beach….

if the kids didn’t save these guys, there would have been 3 missing swimmers on the north shore of hawaii today.

seth and fisher stepped up and did a good thing today. right after that happening, the paddled back out and continued surfing. little do they know, their grommet heroes….

and last but not least, i want to welcome Tia Marie Shigematsu Trinidad into this world. she was born at 12:30am this morning at kapiolani women and childrens hospital in honolulu. contratulations russ and yoshika!!! your life will never be the same… i’m so happy for you guys and know you will both be great parents. just don’t expect to sleep good for the next year… haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide