this Summer has been sunny and warm everyday. and also offshore winds all day long making everything perfect i don’t even remember the last time it rained? 
so weather wise, it’s been the best Summer i can remember. as for waves, i’d say above average. as for crowds, the most i’ve ever seen in my life. not on the beaches, but in the ocean!
i look at Bowls in the morning and count the locals, and then count the sets. then i can calculate how many set waves i can catch in an hour session. if that number i calculate is 7 or more, i will surf. if it’s less, i will foil. because when i foil, i don’t have to wait for anything or anyone. i can take off on a wave nobody wants and turn it into magic! 
so this morning, i chose the magic! i’ve been making some good choices recently because when i come home with the biggest smile on my face by 7am, i know that was the best choice. and that’s been happening every single day!
check out my plumeria!!! i look at it everyday and think how beautiful it is. all it needed was some love…
