the waves were pumping today! i timed it exactly like yesterday because i thought it would be uncrowded again. well, i was wrong. haha. there were surfers everywhere!
but when you go to Bowls, it doesn’t matter how crowded it is. only a few can get the good waves. i took my foil today and caught a couple big sets! i swear i felt like i surfed 10′ Pipeline! my adrenaline rush was as high as it gets… 
seen my friend Trinko out. always nice to see him. 
Trinko is in his 60’s and surfing like a teenager.
everybody asks me if i still surf. now i say “what? i’m surfing right now. the only difference is i have a bigger fin than you guys.” haha… anyway, i’ve been practicing my round house cutbacks. it starts off like this.
and now i can cutback and hit the white water and complete the full round house. it feels so good!
