My Own World…

200

i timed it perfectly again today and got Bowls super nice and uncrowded.  i can’t believe how good the waves have been!!!

this is the main peak at Bowls and today i only counted 3 locals.  the others were beginners.  so yeah, if you can surf decently, you could catch any wave you wanted.  i ended up catching 16 waves!

i caught 16 waves like this but since i can pump into more waves, i actually rode 25 waves.   i had one of the most peaceful sessions in a long time.  i was in my own world and this was it…

been seeing this surfer in the water and was surprised on his waterproof mask.

he wears it while he’s surfing!  he must be a very responsible man…

so happy to see the Kenosuke-san family!  always happy and good to see the boys getting bigger and stronger like Daddy…

Kimura-san loving his life in Wakayama with his grandkids.  he hasn’t been able to travel recently so i’m sure he’s going crazy just like me.  but when this pandemic is over, i’m sure we’ll be on the first flight to Bali!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide