leaving the harbor in the dark not knowing what to expect is exciting. you have to put your mind to just go with the flow and appreciate anything Mother Nature gives you. so yeah, you can feel the excitement in the air…
and on the way out, you’re just mesmerized. totally speechless as you watch the day begin…
and once you can see the waves, that’s when your heart starts to beat faster. and when absolutely nobody is out, you feel like screaming “FREEDOM!!!” and i do that a lot. haha…
somebody asked me how Three’s is. well, it’s the best right point break on the South shore. best swell is out of the South/West, and best tide is medium. on a good day, there’s usually 30-60 surfers out. BUT, if you know how to time it right, you can surf it all by yourself. and i will never tell you what time that is. haha…
i can pull Mayuki right up and take photos from the channel. and i can also cheer my friends on when they’re getting barreled!
passed by the Hilton again and it’s still very quiet. i like quiet, but this is kind of creepy quiet…
